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Taking care of your skin whether you’re in your 30’s or 70’s is a labor of love, a commitment to keeping your skin healthy and knowing what to use in order to achieve the best results.

One of the most highly recommended class of anti-aging compounds used by dermatologists and estheticians alike is Vitamin A.  Also termed “retinoids” (preformed Vitamin A) these ingredients essentially regenerate tissue. As such, prescription Retin-A, now referred to as Tretinoin, was originally promoted to resolve acne through its anti-inflammatory properties, regulating the sloughing off of skin cells as it reduces the likelihood of clogged pores. 

How it works

Studies ultimately confirmed retinoids’ benefits to extend to anti-aging by stimulating collagen production and reducing wrinkles. It is in fact this cellular turnover activity that evens out skin tone and increases blood flow to the skin, promoting a younger-looking complexion. Retinol in essence communicates with your cells and helps not only the damaged cells get back their normal healthy function but protects the good cells. Retinol allows the damaged cells to retain more healthy collagen and elastin, which keeps wrinkles from forming.

Prescription retinoids are very strong and can be extremely irritating to skin, with resultant dryness and flaking. Because retinoids stimulate cell growth, they can make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Covering skin during the day or using sunscreen is essential to minimize the risk of burning. 

Retinol- the kinder, gentler retinoid

Retinol is a form of retinoid, a derivative of vitamin A. Strengths in retinol vary and can be found in serums or creams. The increasing popularity of retinol is significantly due to its non-irritating side-effects compared to prescription grade, allowing it to become an integral party of a daily (and even twice/day)  anti-aging regimen. Since the benefits from using Vitamin A are cumulative (it needs to build up in the skin to show significant improvement), daily use is critical. 

My experience with clients who chose to use a prescription retinoid are confirms that most women are not able to use the prescription form daily due to its drying, irritating effect (flakiness, redness). They therefore cut back on applying it 2 or 3 times a week only- barely giving the cell regeneration activity to synthesize and improve the skin. Retinol on the other hand, can be used daily to achieve those results consistently and without the “ugly” phase that Retin-A requires before the skin finally  (if ever) acclimates to it.

Our choice of retinol 

I quote from Jan Marini, a leader in skincare technology whose products I have been recommending to my clients for over 20 years:

“Age Intervention RETINOL PLUS from Jan Marini Skin Research provides unparalleled skin rejuvenation benefits. The strongest levels of stabilized all-trans-retinol are synergistically combined with advanced topical agents to maximize efficacy while simultaneously decreasing or even eliminating acclimation/irritation concerns. Acclimation with prescription retinol can include redness, drying and visible peeling of the skin, leading many to discontinue its use. Retinol Plus delivers the equivalent skin-smoothing and brightening results without the downtime associated with prescriptions, while providing anti-aging and collagen boosting peptides, antioxidants, hydrators and skin soothing ingredients. Retinol PLUS truly separates itself from the pack.”

Those are the facts- your skin will ultimately show the results.At  A French Touch, we recommend incorporating Retinol Plus into your regimen with the Jan Marini Skincare Management System customized to your particular skin, and strongly encourage the use of this regimen before, during, and after any peel series to maintain and enhance the rejuvenating effects of our peels.

Chemical peels are a great way to refresh and rejuvenate the skin. However, with so many different peels available on the market and everyone from salons to board certified dermatologists offering peels, picking the right peel for your individual needs can be difficult. Before choosing a chemical peel it’s important to understand how its formulation and strength will affect your skin.

WHICH PEEL IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

Chemical peels are the go-to treatment to refresh and rejuvenate your skin.  Whether you’ve just decided to make your skin a priority, having noticed the changes from years of photo-damage (UV radiation exposure) or have always kept to a good regimen, chemical peels are a safe, proven and effective means of visibly improving many skin concerns without resorting to more extreme (and much costlier) alternatives. Even cosmetic surgeons agree that face lifts and other invasive techniques can’t improve the appearance of skin that is not being maintained daily with professional skin care products and regular peels.

Choosing the right peel for your individual needs can be difficult  without consulting an expert. Before choosing a chemical peel it’s important to understand how its formulation and strength will affect your skin.

CHEMICAL PEELS 101

Chemical peels are topically applied formulations that revitalize the skin surface by creating an even and controlled resurfacing of the epidermal layer. This allows new layers to be exposed, creating a fresh appearance and smoother texture to the skin surface.

A chemical peel can improve sun damage, acne scarring, blotchy pigmentation, fine lines and early pre-cancerous skin lesions. A peel can also improve acne-prone skin and clogged pores.

The level of skin cell removal and depth of penetration is dependent on the type of peel used, its level of strength and the duration of the treatment.

Chemical peels are often categorized as superficial, medium and deep depending on their percentage of active ingredients and PH level.

GLYCOLIC ACID PEEL

Improving the texture of the skin through pore refinement, this peel enhances the light-reflecting quality of the skin and reduces blemishes while softening fine lines.

Superficial peels are the most gentle type of chemical peel. These peels are usually made from alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, known as AHAs and BHAs but can also include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid. These peels can be accelerated to produce more visible results when infused with enzymes (Jan Marini Green Papaya Enzyme) or 1% Retinol. 

Our Jan Marini 40% Glycolic Peel is an alpha hydrodxy acid (AHA) based treatment formulated to exfoliate the skin, refine pores, and reduce the visible signs of photodamage by accelerating the cell renewal process. This peel uses unbuffered and un-neutralized acids at a low pH level making it ideal for dry, combination, or sensitive skin types. 

I recommend this type of peel for individuals with typical signs of aging, sun damage and acne scaring.  A one-time peel is excellent to acclimate the skin to AHA activity, or to enhance a facial since the actives used in serums, masks and during massage will penetrate more deeply and give longer term benefits. This peel is recommended for most any skin type, except for extremely delicate, sensitive or reactive skin. A consultation can help determine if this is the peel for you.

Many people notice significant improvements in their skin after undergoing multiple peels over several weeks. For this reason, I recommend a series of peels spread over several weeks for more noticeable results, and to boost the skin’s collagen layer for general rejuvenation.

Glycolic Peels are absolutely painless with most clients reporting little more than a slight itching or tingling. The benefit for many of a glycolic series is the “zero-downtime” effect,  avoiding peeling or redness so common to intense clinical peels administered in doctors’ offices. This is why glycolic peels have been referred to as the “lunch-time” peel, allowing my clients to resume their daily activities. We naturally apply sunscreen and recommend adequate protection for 24-48 hours post-peel.

REFINE PEELS

If you have had a Glycolic Peel or a series of Glycolic Peels, your skin will be acclimated to this more intense version of BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) peel, accelerating the results for even  more visible improvement , specifically resurfacing moderate wrinkles, lines and sun damage and stimulating hyper pigmentation release when paired with our Jan Marini lightening product, Luminate Lotion.

Skin will be significantly smoother with even tone and softened lines. The Jan Marini Refine Peel produces a more dramatic result compared to a Glycolic Acid Peel.

Most clients who choose a Refine or Clarify Peel report feeling slight to moderate discomfort, usually in the form of temporary (3-4 minutes) of “heat”. Refine peels also produce more peeling of the skin to achieve the results after treatment. Clients should expect 3 to 5 days of visible peeling that can be minimized with the application of  daily Papaya Enzyme (Skinzyme Mask).Generally, full recovery takes about one week from treatment.

Refine Peels are recommended in a series of 3, every 3-4 weeks. Home care following the peel in the form of Retinol and Regeneration Booster work synergistically with the peel’s activity to significantly improve the appearance of the skin.

CLARIFY ACNE PEEL

The CLARIFY Acne Peel uses patented high concentrations of stabilized, self-neutralizing beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) to reduce acne while also improving blotchiness, texture issues, and uneven skin tone.This peel is ideal for combination, oily, or acneic skin with moderate post-inflammatory pigmentation.

As with the REFINE PEEL, above, discomfort is minimal, peeling can last for several days, and with consistent Retinol application, skin becomes clear.

We offer customized skincare consultations

At A French Touch Salon, you can be assured that we partner with you to design home care protocols that really fit your lifestyle, budget, and skin concerns. Our products are clinically formulated and proven to do more than just hydrate or moisturize. With over 20 years of experience and training with leading skincare lines and treatment options, I look forward to meeting with you individually to assess your needs, recommend options and schedule your treatments for the most beautiful skin you deserve~

Summer (or really every season in San Luis Obispo) should mean relaxing at Avila Beach, hiking in Montana de Oro, and wine tasting in Edna Valley or Paso Robles—not putting up with breakouts and irritation caused by your sunscreen. Every summer, I struggled with the sunscreen double bind: forego the sunscreen and pay for it in burns and permanent damage, or safeguard my skin and brace for a breakout.

Sunscreen: Not Optional

 Until recently, I wasn’t worried about the sun’s most harmful effects.  After all, in the 90s, my mother’s dermatologist told her, “With your genes, you’ll never have to worry about skin cancer!” I took that to mean that I was immune as well.  Flash forward to 2016, when my mom had a procedure to remove a cancerous spot from her cheek.  That was a definitive wake-up call.

 My mother was not alone.  In the United States, skin cancer cases are diagnosed more often than all other types cancers combined, annually.  The truth is, no one is immune to skin cancer, regardless of complexion or genetic makeup.  But there is hope!  By following the ABCDE Rule, anyone can detect early signs of melanoma.  Take notice of Asymmetry, jagged or irregular Borders, patchy or irregular Coloring, large Diameter, or Evolving shape/size/coloring in moles or birthmarks.  Reporting any unusual findings to your doctor ensures you’re staying on top of your health.  In addition, studies show that consistent sunscreen use can cut melanoma risk in half.  This is why sunscreen use is critical for all skin types.

After seeing first-hand the reality of skin cancer, I knew it was time to start adding sunscreen to my daily routine, regardless of sensitivity to drugstore sunscreen. 

The first step in finding the sunscreen for you is deciding whether you prefer a chemical or physical formula.  Chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin and convert UV rays into heat, which is then released from the body.  They are best suited for playing sports or swimming, as they are sweat and water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.  On the other hand, physical sunscreens sit atop the skin.  Because of this, they do not clog pores and are less likely to be irritating.  Physical sunscreen formulas are a favorite of those with sensitive skin.  I decided I needed to find a physical formula for everyday use and set my chemical sunscreens aside for more occasional use.

Square One: Chemical or Physical Sunscreen?

After joining A French Touch Salon’s family I found the answer to my sunscreen prayers: Colorescience’s Sunforgettable® Total Protection Brush-on Shield SPF 50— one of the salon’s most-recommended and popular products.  My summer days at the beach finally feel more relaxing!

Acne-Prone & Sensitive Skin Types, Rejoice!

The Brush-on Shield isn’t just a favorite of Patricia’s.  Good + Well, a revered lifestyle and wellness publication, ranked this miracle product as the number one sunscreen for sensitive skin.  Dermatologists are raving about this “magic dust with just the right SPF.”  Why?  The Brush-on Shield’s ingredients are certainly well-suited to sensitive skin, but its hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, fragrance and oil-free formula is just the start.  Colorescience’s newly patented EnviroScreen® Technology also protects skin from environmental irritants.  In addition to UVA/UVB sun defense, pollution, blue light, and infrared radiation don’t stand a chance against Colorescience’s blend of natural ingredients.  Contrary to other sunscreens that absorb into the skin (clogging or inflaming the skin) the Brush-on Shield powder sits gently on top of the skin.  My summertime breakouts disappeared—guilt and sunburn-free! 

On-the-Go & All-Day Coverage Made Simple

Finally finding a high-SPF product that worked with my skin had me finally wearing sunscreen regularly.  The cherry on top; however, was the Brush-on Shield’s convenience factor.  

Dermatologists and estheticians cannot emphasize enough the importance of reapplying sunscreen every two hours…which doesn’t seem very realistic, does it?  Just when I thought my new favorite sunscreen couldn’t get any better, it did.  It’s developed to wear both over your makeup (yes, you read that correctly) or as stand-alone coverage over your daily moisturizer.  True to Colorescience’s SPF slogan “looks like nothing, protects from everything,” the Brush-on Shield creates a barrier between skin and the sun, without disrupting the look you love. Toss it in a purse or beach bag and touch-ups become easy breezy!

Whether you’re looking for a sunscreen made with sensitive skin in mind or the ultimate 24/7 coverage, Colorescience’s Sunforgettable® Total Protection Brush-on Shield SPF 50 is the sunscreen solution you need.  Swing by to pick up yours today and start relaxing in the San Luis Obispo sunshine!

Winter–the season I dread most. The weather changes, the time changes, it’s much harder to get up and going in the morning when your warm bed is so cozy, and-most of all- I dread winter because dry skin sets in.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy lazy winter days inside curled up with a book by the fire, but the dry skin is so frustrating-especially when it’s so noticeable. Nothing I found worked for it- whether “ultra-moisturizing” lotions, coconut oil, home remedies, not even Aquaphor helped my dry skin.

Until I found Patricia, and she told me about Hyaluronic Acid, or HA for short.

Hyaluronic Acid might sound scarier than it actually is. It’s not something you played with in Chemistry class. It is a molecule found in your own skin to naturally maintain moisture levels.

So why do you need a product with Hyaluronic Acid if your skin already creates it naturally? Environmental conditions (cold weather, heated rooms that sap the moisture from the air), illness,  and aging deplete our natural reservoir of this vital hydrator. The result is a sensitive, dull, uneven tone and texture leading to more fine lines than a girl deserves!

HA (hyaluronic acid) is critical in maintaining skin hydration,’ says Aesthetic Doctor, Dr. Maryam Zamani, ‘although it can be degraded by free radical mechanisms caused by things like UV exposure. Topically applied, it helps to hydrate the skin and maintain this hydration as a humectant ( a product used to reduce moisture loss).

HA can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, resulting in enhanced elasticity, lubrication, plumpness, and moisture in the skin. With continued use, the skin’s water content improves daily and fine lines and wrinkles become plumper and therefore, less visible. It focuses mainly on delivering water to thirsty skin types, so it’s well tolerated by even the most oily, acne-prone skin.

So how do we enhance what nature has given us, once we see a change?

The skin care market is flooded with products that fill the need for extra HA. The reason over-the-counter products can’t offer lasting, noticeable results is because they are not formulated with small enough molecular weights of HA that can truly direct the skin to absorb, retain and stimulate more natural  hydration. And we all know that more hydration means radiant,glowing skin- not to mention plumper, smoother texture. I’m in!!

Additionally, we put so much focus on cleansing and exfoliating the skin, that we often forget hydrating is just as important. After exfoliation, including peel treatments we offer in the salon, the skin needs to be ‘re-quenched’. Using Hyaluronic Acid post-peel will nourish your skin. Fall and winter are “Peel seasons”, and our peel packages offer a gift with purchase that is usually a form of hydration for the skin…keep an eye out for HYLA from JAN MARINI SKIN RESEARCH and Hydra3HA Serum from SOTHYS.

So, to get back to me (and it’s really all about me!) I started using Sothys’ Hydra 3HA line, which can be applied to any skin type and protects the epidermal layer of the skin that helps with new skin regeneration. It also contains a botanical complex that helps improve the communication between the dermis and the epidermis, where the skin is protected from damage and retains water. Love, love, LOVE the difference in my skin!

You can get the Hydra3HA products I used (cream and serum) right now in the salon for 25% off!! Double the moisture to give your skin the hydration it deserves!

For  Jan Marini girls, HA is the essence of HYLA which specializes in retaining moisture and adding volume to the skin as well as reducing the appearance of fine lines. Along with Hyla, did you know that Jan Marini’s Age Intervention and C-Esta Lines also have Hyaluronic Acid? It’s a key ingredient for aging skin, combating free radical damage while softening the complexion.

Does sunscreen contain HA?  Colorescience is on the forefront of sun protection that helps the skin’s health in addition to UV protection, mixing HA into SUNFORGETTABLE SPF 50 FACE SHIELD and  SPF 50 MINERAL BRUSH-ON SUNSCREEN! And if you’ve never tried their ANTI-AGING SERUM , you’ve been missing out on air-brushed, radiant skin that doesn’t even need makeup! It’s a 3-in-1 treatment that features their patented Decaplex-10™ peptide blend, hyaluronic acid and cosmetic enhancing ingredients to diminish the look of wrinkles and rejuvenate the skin.

So keep the HA coming, and Santa won’t be able to resist kissing those smooth, glowing faces!

Happy holidays mes amis!

~Ally